Public Transportation
Sometimes when I tell people that I took the train, subway, or bus to reach a tourist attraction in Europe, I get a bewildered response. Some people just prefer driving or taking a taxi, but others are clearly nervous at the prospect of taking public transportation. I can understand being a little nervous, but honestly it’s easy, and you can do it. I have never been nervous about trains or subways, which probably comes from growing up in Boston and making extensive use of the T, but I used to worry about buses.
When I visited Europe for the first time as an adult, we started off in Italy, specifically in Sorrento. I wanted to visit the Greek temples at Paestum, but it was going to be three buses to get there from Sorrento. I was very nervous about that, but I also really, really, really wanted to go to Paestum, so we did. The first two buses were easy (and a beautiful drive; the Amalfi Coast is amazing): Sorrento to the end of the line in Amalfi, and then Amalfi to the end of the line in Salerno. The last leg was what I was worried about because Paestum is not the end of line for the bus from Salerno, and I wasn’t sure where to get off or even which bus was the right one. We spotted a bus driver and a conductor standing outside a bus smoking, so we asked them – Paestum? And the conductor said “Si, si” and gestured for us to get on, and we did.
We paid very close attention to the route as we drove along trying to figure out where we should get off. At one point the road was about to make a 90 degree turn, and the bus pulled over just before it. The conductor beckoned to us to come up to the front of the bus and pointed straight down the minor road straight ahead of us to where you could just see a Greek temple in the distance, and he said “Paestum.” And we thanked him and got off and headed toward the Greek temple, while the bus turned left and continued on its way.
I have never hesitated to take a bus in Europe since. There is always a way to know where to get off: a clearly marked sign or a group of other tourists getting off or a clearly visible tourist attraction or a helpful conductor. And by the way, Paestum was absolutely worth it; we had the temples almost to ourselves. I can safely say that getting to the salt mine in Hallein was even easier than going to Paestum. Most of the people on the bus were going to the salt mine, and there was a big sign for it as we approached the bus stop.
Day 2: Mining, Monschburg, and Mozart
After breakfast we walk down to the train station and up to the ticket counter to purchase the ticket package for Hallein and the salt mine. I attempt to explain what we want in German, and the clerk looks puzzled. Then her face clears, and she exclaims in English, "Oh you want to go to the salt mine." She then explains the train tickets and vouchers for the bus and the mine and puts it all in an envelope for me.
We take the next train to Hallein and then go outside to find the bus. There is a large group of schoolchildren also waiting for the bus; it must be school outing week. When we arrive at the mine we exchange our vouchers for tickets. It is very crowded, and we do not make it onto the next tour but are given tickets for the one following. When our turn comes we find that we are touring with a group of German-speaking children, although not the same group who came up with us on the bus, and a family of four who are also taking the English tour, although it clearly is not their native language. We all put on coveralls and take a little train into the mountain.
Getting off the train
Bill in coverall
The tour is more interesting than I expected. There are some little film clips featuring Wolf Dietrich, a prince archbishop of Salzburg, whose name we also encountered yesterday at the Hohensalzburg. Apparently his fortune was based on salt. The guide also gives us additional information about salt mining, having explained to the kids that he is going to do both German and English and asking them to be quiet during the English so we can hear. We do two banister slides to the shrieking delight of the kids, take a boat across an underground lake, see mining equipment from various periods, cross over into Germany and then back into Austria, and see a replica of a Celtic miner, whose body was found in the mine.
Mining lamps through the ages
Banister slide
We arrive back in Salzburg mid-afternoon and after regrouping at the hotel decide to walk over to the Monchsburg elevator and do the walk over to the fortress. The view at the top of this page is from the viewing platform next to the elevator. We stop at the Stadtalm Cafe and eat apple strudel because you cannot come to this part of the world and neglect to eat strudel. It is delicious!
View of the Hohensalzburg from Monchsburg Walk
We wrap up the day with an 8 pm concert at Mirabell Palace, and it is wonderful. We had previously done a concert at the fortress, and while we enjoyed it, the music is definitely better at Mirabell. It is a lovely end to a wonderful day.
Food of the Day
Apple strudel
Practicalities
City: Salzburg, Hallein
Weather: Sunny
Hotel: Hofwirt
Sights: Salt Mine
Monschburg walk
Concert at Mirabell Palace
Replica mummified Celtic miner
View of Salzburg from Monchsburg